In some of the old silver manufacturers catalogs from the 1880s you can see hatpins that were about 6 to 8 inches, and also some that were very tiny. Lenocker: Typically they started out with silver. Collectors Weekly: What materials did they make hatpins with? Those are the more high end hatpins, probably worn by a society matron. I have my more refined hatpins that were obviously made by jewelers, they have marks and are made of 14, 16, or 18k gold. I have some that I call my working girl hat pins, more the brass and glass type. Most people are familiar with the white or black bead on a pin… that was the basic hatpin and they became more ornate from there.
What you could afford also depended on your economic state. You might wear something very ornate for an evening out when you’re dressed up, and during the day something less showy. Most everyone was wearing hats and hatpins during this era, a wide variety of them. They didn’t wear western style dress, but they learned what the western market wanted and made them. But they didn’t wear hatpins in Japan, they just manufactured them. One of the types of hatpins popular with collectors was made in Japan, called Satsuma. Hatpins were popular in Europe, America, Australia, and New Zealand. If you see advertising from that era, you’ll see ads for hairpieces. Also, hairstyles were more elaborate and upswept, so they would use artificial hairpieces in their hair to help anchor the hat and give that upswept do look. It was liberating to get rid of the bonnet strings and use the hatpins to secure the hat on your head. That’s when hats stopped using bonnet strings. The height of the hatpin era was from about 1890 to 1925. As styles changed and the hats changed, the pins became longer and more ornate. Women, especially in the summertime, would wear those straw hats, and they started using pins to help secure the hat. Collectors Weekly: Where did hatpins originate? That’s the way it is for most collectors, although there are a few that only collect holders and no hatpins. I like to arrange my hatpins in them, but I never actually go out looking for holders. When I see a holder at a fair price, I’ll buy it. I don’t collect those only those truly made for hatpins. Some hatpin holders have a hole in the bottom that you put a cork in and they can be used for shaking sugar or powdered sugar. I also collect hatpin holders, the ones with the solid bottoms. Now I have about 270 in my collection, which actually isn’t a lot compared to some of the other collectors.
That was around 1991 and I’ve been collecting ever since. I bought some hatpins and she told me about the American Hatpin Society and encouraged me to learn more about hatpins. So later, in Old Town Orange, I went into an antique shop that had a plethora of hatpins and it turns out the owner was there, Deena Zachritz. Now, I cannot make flowers look nice in a vase to save my soul, but I thought I could probably do that, put hatpins in a holder and make them look nice. I went through a home where the woman collected hatpins and she had these beautiful bouquets of hatpins throughout the house. So, I was looking for something smaller to collect and I took a walking tour of Old Town Orange. Originally my husband and I collected cylinder phonographs, but after you acquire a few of them and their stands, you soon run out of room. Satsuma hatpin: made in Japan out of ceramic and hand painted
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